Travels with Gus

"A real Kandinsky"

Despite the fact that Gus, our motor-caravan, had been standing idle on the campsite in the Algarve for some time, the engine sprang into life instantly and ran smoothly. Not once, in the twelve months we owned Gus, had he failed us.
  Under cloudless skies Francis and I turned north to find work in Holland for the coming summer months. I wanted to be back in time for my mother’s birthday, which allowed us four weeks to drive the distance Algarve-Holland. Ample time, one would think, but with our un-hurried way of life we would have to “step on it”.
  I had made an itinerary through Portugal, Spain and France and had calculated that we should at least drive an average of eighty miles a day in order to be back in Holland in time. For most people eighty miles a day means nothing, but for Francis and me time had gotten a relatively meaning and it was, for example, no longer the clock that indicated it was time for supper, but our stomachs that said when we were hungry. However, it also meant we rapidly became much slower.
  Every day I “hurried” to drive the necessary miles. I did the best I could, but somehow I never made it. As we didn’t use camping’s anymore, it was always a problem to find enough drinking-water to fill our tanks with. During the past months I had developed a “third” eye for spotting useful water in the form of outdoor-taps, fountains, cemeteries and municipal flower-beds. Sometimes it was difficult to find water, sometimes not. So, when driving on a small road Francis noticed a source, she cried: “Stop!” I instantly applied the brakes, because we needed water badly, for washing the dirty linen as well as cleaning the interior of our home. Washing and cleaning was no big job, but afterwards the linen had to dry in the sun and that took time.

op-reis-06After a beautiful trip through the interior of Portugal I arrived at a small border-crossing. The road was blocked with a heavy pole. Beside the road stood a red and white painted building with a stone gate next to it.
  A border-guard indicated I should leave the ‘van and pointed to the building. After my eyes had become used to the darkness inside, I saw two desks, one for people entering Portugal, one for leaving the country. I positioned myself in front of the correct window and waited.
  Several minutes later the border-guard came inside to look where I was. When he saw that nobody manned the desks, he went outside and, after entering again through a back-door, sat himself behind the window.
  He didn’t want to see my passport, instead he asked me to write Gus’ licence-number on a small, blank piece of paper. When I had done just that, he stamped the paper and pointed to a window at the other side of the office.
  This desk was manned. However, the official never looked at me, only grabbed the proffered piece of paper, stamped it again, gave it back and waved his hand in the general direction of the door.
  Outside the border-guard, who had given me the first stamp, stood already waiting for me. He asked me to hand over the piece of paper and then put it in his pocket!
  I had time enough to recuperate from these slightly bureaucratic formalities, whilst the border-guard took all the time in the world to unlock the barrier, before allowing me through.
  One mile further on we arrived at the Spanish border and there proceedings were a lot quicker: “From Holland? Move on!”

In northern-Spain we drove parts of the ‘Camino de Santiago’, the ancient pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. Instead of following the original ‘Way of St. James’ we travelled the pilgrim route backwards to the Spanish-French border. In fact there is no “real” pilgrim route, because every road or path leading to Santiago de Compostela was a route the pilgrims could follow, but along highways and footpaths many signposts had been erected, indicating the ways most used by the pilgrims.
  We followed the highway and, when crossing a footpath, we walked for several miles. It was a fascinating landscape and because of the many Roman-style buildings I had, in my mind, no problem to put the clock back a few centuries.

After we had crossed the border with France I realised that with an average of eighty miles a day we were never going to make it to Holland in time. To speed up I made a new itinerary of 160 miles a day. The next day those 160 miles took me almost eight hours and in the evening I wondered how on earth that could have been possible. Gus the Goose was no flyer, but neither that slow!
  Looking back, I found out that along the way we had stopped eight times: three stops for coffee, two for shopping, one for lunch and two stops for a cup of tea. On an average we had stopped every twenty miles!
  The longest stops had been for shopping. If we were to stay in Holland for four months, we could easily load Gus with all kinds of commodities that were cheaper in Spain or France than in Holland. Francis spent “hours” in the enormous supermarkets of ‘Mammouth’ en ‘Carrefour’, checking and rechecking prices. Next to coffee, camembert, detergent and motor-oil we stowed the storing-space below our rear dinette seating with litre-packs of wine. Coming summer, I was surely not going to suffer from thirst.

Upon our return in Holland I went, after we had greeted our family and friends, to the governmental labour exchange in search for work. After I had filled in a stack of forms and had waited for the best part of the morning, I was ushered into a small office-cubicle.
  “Please sit down,” said a balding man. He put on his reading-glasses and started to read aloud from the forms I had filled in previously: “Name, Roger Booy; age, forty; born...”
  After he had read the whole list, he looked at me inquiringly over his half-moon glasses: “Is that correct?”
  “It is,” I answered, beginning to feel tired, “But how or where do I get a job? I’ll try anything!”
  The man looked indifferently at me, started to drum his desk with his ball-point pen and told me it was very difficult to find a job, especially in these economic times.
  “I know that,” I said, helping him on, “But I heard you have trouble finding enough people wanting to pick flower-bulbs. Should I try that?”
  “I wouldn’t do that, if I was you,” he said, “It is not in accordance with your education, and of course you are not used to working in the fields.”
  “Then what should I do?” I asked, “Do you have a suggestion?”
  “Not at the moment,” he said, ending the interview, “You just have to wait until we find something that fits you. It might help to have a good look at the advertisements in the newspapers.”
  I could not think of anything else to say but: “Thank you, sir.”
  This conversation hadn’t done me any good. Two blocks further on was a private employment agency and there I was received with a lot more enthusiasm.
  “I think I’ve got something for you,” said the pretty girl behind the reception-desk, “We’ve just had a phone call from an internationally known art museum. They need an attendant. Do you know something about art?”
  As a matter of fact I did. I have always been interested in art and I knew the museum well. They had an extensive collection of paintings by Dutch masters and the museum was also well-known for its advanced acquisitions. It seemed a nice job to tell visitors something about the exhibitions and I said so.
  “Then we have a deal,” the girl said, “You have the job for at least one day and maybe longer. You can start tomorrow morning at eight. Report to mister Franken and, oh, don’t forget to wear a good suit.”
  That same evening I first drove to my mothers house to get my suit from the attic and then to the museum, where I parked Gus for the night on the parking-lot.

At exactly eight o’clock the next morning I reported at the gate of the museum in my Sunday best. The guard hardly looked up from his newspaper and said:
  “Attendant, huh? Just go over there to the canteen for the personnel and wait for mister Franken. He’ll be with you in a minute.”
  Half an hour later I was still sitting in the canteen without having met mister Franken. One of the waitresses took pity on me and alerted another attendant, who had just had his morning coffee.
  “Report to Franken? The old man never comes in before ten o’clock, mate. You better come with me. I’ll tell you what to do.”
  He took me to the upper floor of the museum, pushed open a couple of large fire-resistant doors and in doing so revealed several rooms with modern art. The attendant thrust a broom into my hands and said:
“Your job is to guard these three rooms, mate. At ten the museum opens to the public. Be sure the floors are swept before that time!”

So, there I was, in my three-piece suit, golden cuff-links and a broom in my hand! Sweeping the floors took only a few minutes and therefore I thought it best to make myself familiar with the works of art.
  Looking around didn’t take long. The exhibitions on ‘my’ floor were dedicated to three different artists. One of them supposed ‘art’ meant arms and legs made of plaster, sticking out of the walls in weird places. The second room had pornographic wallpaper on all four walls and in the third room I looked at four different sinks, also made from plaster. Not exactly my idea of art, but if the museum wanted to dedicate three rooms to this stuff, who was I to criticise?

At a few minutes past ten a man entered my floor. I wondered if he would be mister Franken. The man walked straight over to me. He looked annoyed and said:
  "Who are you?"
  I told him I had been sent by the employment agency and his reaction was:
  “Another one? What am I going to do with you...?”
  I made a humble gesture that I didn’t know either, and the man went on:
  “Well, all right, you can remain in these rooms. You stay here till five o’clock and your lunch-break is from one till two o’clock.”
  He fished a small badge out of his pocket:
  “Here, this says you’re an attendant. Pin it on your lapel.”
  I asked if there was anything more I should know about, but he said:
  “Oh no, you’ll do fine.”

He was right. After I had pinned on the badge, nothing happened until some time later an elderly woman walked up to my floor. She reminded me of my mother and I thought that she would definitely feel out of place here. The woman looked disapprovingly at the pornographic wallpaper, then saw me and came over.
  This is it, I thought, but the slightly blushing woman asked only one question:
  “Please tell me where one can get a cup of coffee?”
  Here my knowledge of the museum from former visits came in handy:
  “Yes ma’m, down these stairs, and then to your right!”

I had not thought of bringing something to read, and found nothing better to do than staring out of the window with my hands behind my back. The window had a view of the tower-clock of a nearby church, so I had an indication of the time. At exactly eleven o’clock I decided to make another round of my rooms.
  One hour later I returned to the window and was astonished to see the hands of the tower-clock had not moved more than five minutes. How long was this day going to be?
  Just before it was time for my lunch-break another woman came into the room. I looked up gladly, a second chance!
  But no, she asked for the way out. It seemed unlikely someone was going to take my place during the lunch-hour, so I said to her:
  “Come with me. I’ll take you there.”

If possible the afternoon was even quieter. Whilst looking out of the window, I had all the time in the world to think about what I could do to improve our motor-caravan for the next trip.
  At just after three, another person came into the room. It was a heavily-built man carrying a painting under his arm. He nodded friendly, and I nodded in return. Only when he had left the room did I start to wonder. Was it normal to see people walking around in a museum with paintings under their arms?
  I ran after the man, stopped him, and asked if he could please tell me what he was doing with that painting. The man looked at my badge, shifted his weight from one foot to the other and said laughingly:
  “Of course I would like to tell you.”
  He held the painting high so I could have a good look at it:
  “My name is Jan Simons. I work in the restoration-department and am about to start on this painting. Here, have a closer look. It’s a real Kandinsky!”
  It should be all right, I thought, but the remainder of the afternoon I felt ill at ease. Do restorers always walk around with paintings under their arms?

At five o’clock I handed over my badge to the guard at the gate and walked back to the parking-lot where Gus was waiting for me. I had not seen mister Franken anymore and nobody had asked if I would come again tomorrow. I couldn’t care less. I had said I would consider any job, but being an attendant didn’t count anymore. The next morning, no mention was made in the newspapers about a stolen Kandinsky.

 

Meeting Greece

In wintertime Greece is a marvellous country to explore with a motor caravan. The sun always shines and the locals seem to have all the time in the world. The men are strolling the streets or linger at the pavement-cafés drinking small cups of coffee or sipping a glass of ouzo.

At last that was what we were told and so, somewhere in the first week of November, Francis and I drove into Greece, intending to stay several months. We came from the north, it was raining, awfully cold and from over the mountains blew a high north wind. It was the first time we were in Greece with Gus, our motor caravan. In spite of the continuous showers the countryside made a pleasant impression. The friendly customs-officer, the white-washed houses and the rugged mountains looked promising.
  That night the rain became sleet and I got worried. In able to reach the south of Greece we had to cross the ‘Pinhos’, the mountain ridge that separated the northern part of Greece from the south. A small pass was the only road across the mountains, which would be closed in case of heavy snow-fall. I started to fantasise what it would be like to be snowed up in this little village, where we had parked Gus for the night, only to be freed next spring. Somehow the idea didn’t seem attractive.
op-reis-02
When I woke up the next morning it was unusually quiet. Carefully I lifted a corner of our curtains, looked outside and got a fright. During the night the sleet had become snow and the streets and cars were covered with a ten-inch layer of the white stuff. Anxiously Francis and I looked at each other. Were we snowed up? Did we really have to stay here?
After a while I saw a snow-plough cleaning the streets and I decided to push on. The first part of the journey was certainly no picnic. Although the road was free of snow, the verges were covered with a thick layer. It was cold, dark and several cars had skidded during the early hours of the morning. Suddenly Gus’ diesel engine started to cough and splutter. Definitely something wrong in the fuel-department, but what...?
  By fits and starts the ‘van moved slowly along. Nowhere did I see a place where I could park and I started to worry that the engine would die completely. Cold sweat started on my brow.
  Fortunately the engine kept -although barely- doing its job and after a few miles it started to run normally again. Relieved I breathed more freely. Too soon! The spluttering began anew, only not as bad as the first time. Whilst driving on, I tried to figure out what the problem could be, but this time also, a few miles later, the engine ran smoothly again. Happily the problem didn’t present itself for a third time.

Only later the solution hit me. The day before I had filled-up my fuel tank with diesel. Presumably this had still been “summer-fuel” and therefore not suitable for these wintry conditions. Had the problem persisted I should have added a few litres of petrol to cure the coughing.
  Not only the condition of the engine had me worried. Anguished I looked up at every pass we had to cross. Some were more than five thousand feet high. The road was small and barely passable. Because of the heavy snow several large rocks had rolled on the tarmac and I had to drive a gymkhana course in able to avoid them. Fortunately there was hardly any other traffic. Only a few oncoming cars and they made me feel easier.
  Somewhere around noon the sun broke out from behind the heavy clouds and from that moment on we enjoyed a magnificent ride between snow-covered mountain-tops. A few hours later we had left the snow behind us and I was relieved when we drove into the city of Ioánnina. My worries about being snowed-up had been very real and I was glad we had survived this grimly journey unscathed.

Ioánnina was a bustling town. It was situated along a large lake and I parked Gus fronting the shore. From our ‘van we could see on the top of a hill the large citadel, where in the nineteenth century the Turkish ruler Ali-Pasja lived, together with his three hundred wives. Still, his biggest hobby was enjoying the look of his opponents heads, impaled on pointed pikes. As could be expected of such a cruel and lusty character, he ended up badly.
  Oh well..., maybe Ali-Pasja didn’t know how to say “no” in the Greek language. At least Francis had lots of trouble trying to say “no”. On the market she was accosted by several little old ladies, all of them trying to sell their tangerines or vegetables. Trying to avoid them, Francis shook her head, which was wrong because in Greece that meant “yes”. Confusion on both sides!
  At the bakery she bought what she thought were two pieces of cake, only when we wanted to eat them, we found out they were pies, filled with soft goat-cheese and spinach! Because we had expected something sweet, we had to get used to the combination, but later the pies tasted delicious.

After a few days of travelling along the west coast, Francis wanted to do the “big washing” like sheets and jeans, and therefore we decided to find a campsite.
  In a small fishing-village I stopped at the local campsite to ask the owner if he had a spot available for us. Except for several uninhabited looking caravans, the site was completely abandoned and the friendly owner said:
  “No problem, you can park your ‘van anywhere you like.”
  At my question how much the site was going to cost, he smiled and answered:
  “No problem, it’s free.”
  Maybe because we were out-of-season? Yet, the facilities were excellent, clean toilets, warm water and that was all we needed.

After two days we didn’t want to exploit the hospitability of the owner any longer and decided to move on. Our “host” didn’t agree with us at all.
  “No problem,” he protested, “Please stay a few days more. Why don’t you two come along with me this afternoon? Our football team plays an important match against the next village. It will be most interesting!”
  Nevertheless we decided to leave. However, this kind of friendliness we met everywhere in Greece. Even in shops everyone tried to be of service, but definitely not just because they wanted to make a sale. Most people we met spoke a few words of English and even all signposts on the main roads were bi-lingual, in Greek with Cyrillic letters and in plain English. Easy for us, although that way we didn’t learn one word of Greek.

That day we drove to Préveza, a small harbour-town. We quickly found a nice looking parking lot near the marina and saw we had parked Gus opposite a large sailing-yacht, flying the Dutch flag.
  A dark haired woman, younger than we, stood on deck and reacted spontaneously:
  “How good to meet Dutch people again! We’re from Amsterdam, where do you come from?”
  “My name’s Christine,” she went on, without waiting for an answer, “Just a second, I’ll call my husband.”
  From below appeared a thick-set chap wearing shorts. His name was Eddy, he thought of himself as exceptionally unique and informed us right away of the fact he called himself a “sea-tramp” and had already been sailing the high seas for two years.
  I had to swallow when this couple from Amsterdam looked surprised because we travelled with a ‘van.
  “I thought a motor caravan was only for the elderly,” Eddy said, and I got a distinct impression that by old he meant people over eighty.
  “No, a motor caravan is nothing,” he finished us off, “Sailing, that’s for real!”
  He then started a long story telling us of all the dangers he had to cope with whilst sailing. According to him the only thing that could happen to us was a flat tyre.
  “And then you call the AA and they’ll come and fix it for you!”
  I had to agree with Eddy that our Gus wasn’t likely to go down in a heavy storm at sea, but adventures we surely did have. Eddy and Christine were not the most likable people, yet it had been nice to have met fellow-countrymen again.

We stayed in Préveza for a whole week and while we were parked near the marina the weather changed constantly. Sometimes heavy showers, but also the sun came out regularly and then the temperature rose above twenty degrees. The warm, damp air felt quite comfortable. Close to Préveza were beautiful deserted beaches and the sea water was warm and crystal clear.
  After that week we thought it was time to move on again. Francis and I had already looked at each other reprovingly, because we had been in Greece for several weeks and had not yet visited any cultural sights. Not far from Préveza we found the excavations of Nikópolis, an antique town dating from the time of the Roman Empire.
  I found the remains of the city walls quite imposing. However, life in Greece goes on and nowadays a two-lane motorway runs right between the ruins. The excavations looked more like an enormous farmyard, where wild herbs, cyclamen and many other flowers blossomed. Francis almost tripped over a tortoise. Here they still live in the wild, although they are rapidly becoming extinct.

op-reis-05In the next town we found a perfect spot on the shore of an inland sea and decided right away to stay for a couple of days. After a few minutes I noticed an awful smell, as if we stood in the middle of an enormous puddle of cow dung. I moved our ‘van several feet backwards but that made not much improvement. Now and then this terrible scent wafted through the interior.
  For the second time I moved Gus, this time several hundred feet further on. That move brought some respite, but not for long. It looked like I had parked Gus on a rubbish tip. I had no idea where this awful smell came from. It couldn’t be my waste water tank, could it? I opened the tap and indeed the smell coming from the tank was no bunch of roses, but definitely not the smell I was looking for.
  Several Greek men, walking along the shore or sat there fishing had, of course, followed closely our moving to and fro. While Francis and I walked around our ‘van, sniffing the air, one of those men approached us and asked in perfect English what we were looking for. I found that hard to explain, but Francis answered quickly:
  “A water tap!”
  The man didn’t think it was strange we were sniffing for water and politely pointed at a tap outside a nearby supermarket. When he had left we desperately decided not to stay along the shore. On the other side of the road was a small parking lot from where we still had a nice view overlooking the sea. The awful smell had vanished.

On our evening stroll over the boulevard we were again approached by the man that had pointed at the tap. Very kindly he asked if we liked his village and after some small talk he introduced us to his companion Antonío, an elderly, greying gentleman who, to our surprise, addressed us in fluent Dutch.
  “For more than twenty years I’ve worked in the Netherlands in the textile-industry,” Antonío said, “and after I was pensioned off my wife and I went back to Greece to enjoy our old age.”
  Antonío told us he had a problem. He had received a questionnaire from his pension fund in the Netherlands. Antonío had no trouble reading Dutch, but the letters from our clever civil servants were always in English, which he could not read! Would we want to help him? Of course we would and Antonío invited us to come to his home the next morning.

I was curious to see what a Greek house looked like on the inside, but was very disappointed when I saw that Antonío had decorated his home in a typical Dutch fashion. Dark, heavy oak tables, oak chairs, an oak cupboard and even several Delft Blue clogs on an occasional table. Only the glass of ouzo after morning-coffee was typical Greek.
  Dimitra, the wife of Antonío, also spoke fluent Dutch and together they told us a lot about the difference between Greek and Dutch culture. The morning flew, there was no more time to look at the questionnaire, so Antonío and Dimitra invited us to come again the next day and have dinner with them.

Again I was disappointed, as the meal was in honour of us also typical Dutch, cooked potatoes, meat and vegetables. When, after dinner, Antonío finally showed me the extensive questionnaire I could imagine he hadn’t understood one word. The explanation of the questions was extremely difficult and only after reading the whole thing for the third time I began vaguely to understand what all the questions were about. It took me several hours to complete the questionnaire and I readily understood why people always invented jokes about civil servants!